Roses are the most popular garden flowers, characterized by a huge varietal variety. You can choose delicate pink buds or give preference to bright saturated tones, but when choosing a particular option, it is desirable to take into account the required conditions for their cultivation. We bring to your attention a rose of floribunda Pastella, which, with its external attractiveness, is notable for its low demands on planting and further care.
Variety breeding history
This variety appeared in Germany in 2004 and, like many others, owes this to the breeders of the well-known company “Tantau”, located in the town of Itersen. It has existed for more than 100 years (founded in 1906) and during this time it has presented the world with many bright and unusual flowers, miniature bush forms or tea-hybrid varieties. Pastella got its name due to the delicate color of the sheets: white tones are favorably combined with a pinkish glow.
Characteristic and Description
The Pastella variety is represented by dense, compact and dense bushes up to 60–80 cm in height. Creamy white cup-shaped flowers are formed on them, which near the end of flowering become completely white, sometimes with a pink border around the edge. All of them are medium in size (about 6-8 cm in diameter), densely terry, with a barely noticeable pleasant aroma. In inflorescences, 3–8 buds were collected, the leaves were light green. Flowering of bushes begins in late spring and continues throughout the warm season. One of the characteristic features of the variety is the slow opening of the buds, but at the same time they retain their decorative effect for a long time.
Did you know? The smallest rose in the world is the C variety, the size of the buds of which is about 1 cm, with a plant height of 12 cm.
Like most other varieties of Tantau, the described variety has excellent resistance to powdery mildew and black spotting, and its roots are much less susceptible to putrefactive processes. As for the cold tolerance of the plant, it can withstand temperature drops well, often below -23 ° C. This means that this variety is suitable not only for cultivation in the southern regions, but also for planting in the northern territories.
Outdoor landing
Planting seedlings of flowers in an open area provides for several important preparatory measures, starting with the selection of optimal planting dates and ending with the placement of a young plant in a selected area. Each of these stages has its own characteristics, which you need to know about.
The timing
Like all floribunda roses, Pastella prefers only heated soil, so when planting in spring, harvested parts are moved to the site from April 20 to May 30, and in the spring they are planted from early September to late October. A month before the expected frosts, all planting measures must be completed, otherwise the young plant will not have time to take root well and die.
Important! For artificial acidification of the soil, humus is introduced into it (10 kg per 1 m²), and to reduce acidity, ash or lime is used, calculated at 0.5 kg per 1 m² of territory.
Seat selection
Most roses prefer well-lit places, protected from sudden gusts of wind and drafts. The Pastella variety is not an exception in this matter, so for placing the bush it is better to choose elevated, well-ventilated areas that are clearly visible from the windows of the house. Wetlands or southern areas with high solar activity during the day should be avoided, otherwise ugly spots of burns may appear on the petals, and the root system of the plant will suffer from excess moisture.
It is desirable that the soil in the selected place be black earth, however, plants can also be planted in loamy areas previously enriched with organic fertilizers. The acidity of the substrate in this case does not matter, but it is better if it is slightly acidic soils, with a pH level in the range of 6-6.5 units. Undesirable precursors for Pastella roses will be cinquefoil, quince, cherry, pear, mountain ash and all representatives of the Rosaceae, since they consume from the soil all the same nutrients as the described flower bush.
Important! It is more convenient to plant roses together, when one person keeps the sapling at an acceptable level, and the second covers the rhizome with earth. The likelihood of damage to the roots in this case is significantly lower than with the independent execution of the task.
In addition to growing in open soil, Pastella roses also feel great in containers, which greatly facilitates the wintering of flowers in the northern regions. When growing on a bed, you will have to cut the bushes as much as possible and cover the remaining parts with covering material, and as a preventive measure, you can additionally treat the rose with fungicidal preparations, which will protect it from possible diseases.
Preparatory work
Preparing for the process of planting Pastella roses on the site provides for the implementation of standard actions: the organization of beds and the preparation of acquired planting material.
Soil preparation
If you plan to plant flowers in sandy or clay garden soil, then a few days before the procedure, you need to dig it up on a bayonet shovel, adding phosphorus (chemical) fertilizers or organic matter in the form of well-decomposed manure or compost to the bottom layer. Black earth substrates can be simply dug up, weeds removed and leveled, after which it remains only to arrange the holes and lay out the drainage layer in them.
It is useful to enrich heavy soils with peat, compost, ash or rotted chicken manure, diluted 1:10. In light sandy soils, you can add substances that retain moisture, for example, compost with impurities of peat, sod soil or weathered clay. As for the organization of planting holes, the time here depends on the timing of planting seedlings: for spring planting, pits are prepared in the fall, and for autumn they are organized in the spring.
Did you know? Rose petal oil is one of the most complex in terms of production, and about 5,000 petals are required to produce 1 kg of such a product.
Their depth should be at least 60 cm, despite the fact that 10 cm will occupy the laid out drainage layer (small pebbles, coarse gravel, crushed stone). A 10-centimeter layer of organic fertilizers is often spread on top of it: rotted manure mixed with a layer of fertile land in equal proportions. At the end of the process, it remains only to fill the dome from the fertile soil and leave the hole until spring (or fall).
Seedlings preparation
Before planting Pastella roses in the selected place, carefully inspect the measles system of seedlings again and remove the rotten roots. Prepare a talker from equal parts of clay soil and water, and then dip the roots of the plant into the mixture, leaving it in liquid for 10-15 minutes. Some gardeners recommend treating weak roots in the Kornevin growth stimulant solution.
And if they look completely healthy, and there are no complaints, then just soak them in clean water for a day. To disinfect the rose and prevent the development of ailments, you can also immerse its lower part in the “Fundazole” solution for several hours.
Technology and depth
After treating the roses in water or with a growth stimulator, carefully straighten all the roots, level the soil in the prepared hole and place the seedling in the center of the hole. The root neck of the plant should be 3 cm below the ground level, after which it remains only to fill the hole with the remaining loose substrate and slightly compact it around the trunk. After this, the root neck should still be below the surface, which will stimulate the growth of additional stems. At the end of the process, pour the bush under the root, pour a little soil in place of the settled one and mulch the surface with a layer of peat.
Care Tips
Proper planting of Pastella roses on the site is only the beginning on the way to getting a beautiful ornamental plant, because much will depend on the correctness of further care for it. Watering, fertilizing, caring for the soil and pruning a grown flower bush play a major role in its development, so we suggest that you learn about the features of these processes when growing this variety.
Watering
For irrigation of flowering rose bushes, it is worth using only standing, moderately warm water. The best time to moisten the soil is in the morning or evening, preferably immediately after sunset. On an adult plant, on average, at least 5 liters of fluid are necessary, and it is advisable to pour it clearly under the bush, preventing the possibility of getting on the leaves and trunk.
Irrigation regularity is selected individually, with the obligatory taking into account the state of the upper soil layer: the earth may remain moist, but with the preservation of friability. In addition, young plants tolerate drought much worse than adult and well-developed bushes, so recently transplanted specimens should be watered more often.
Feeding
The composition of the fertilizer and the regularity of its use depends on the stage of development of the bush and soil nutrition, but on average fertilizers are applied seasonally:
- in the spring - nitrogen;
- in the summer - phosphorus and potassium, which will contribute to a more magnificent flowering.
Of the organic substances, urea, humus, and compost are suitable in this case, and bone meal is suitable for nourishing the bushes. Ammonium nitrate, urea and ammofosk, are dissolved in water in a ratio of 1 tbsp. tablespoon of substance (without top) per 10 liters of water (at least 1 liter of solution should be in one adult plant). In the first year after planting, roses can not be fed, and in the future fertilizers are applied along with watering, avoiding the direct effect of the selected substance on the rhizome (this can lead to burns).
About 5 top dressings are carried out in one season: for the first time in early spring, the second after the formation of the first buds, and then every 1-1.5 months, using complex mineral fertilizers (for example, Kemira), dissolved in water in the ratio 30 g of substance per 10 liters of liquid. At least 3 liters of such a solution should be attributed to one plant, but fertilizer can be infused only into a moistened substrate. In late October or early November, you can enrich the soil with potassium compounds, without chlorine impurities. Dissolving them in water is not necessary at all, you can simply sprinkle dry matter on the surface of the soil.
Weeding and loosening of soil
Soil care under rose bushes is carried out shortly after the next moistening and involves the removal of weeds, loosening and fluffing of the soil. For the full development of the aerial part, the rhizome must receive enough oxygen, and this is possible only thanks to similar measures. To maintain the optimum moisture level and protect the rhizome from external influences, it is possible to additionally mulch with peat or wood sawdust (the mulch layer can reach 4–6 cm).
Pruning
When growing ornamental bushes, timely pruning is simply necessary, because it helps to maintain the attractive appearance of a flowering shrub. First of all, all old, faded flowers should be cut, but they should be removed before the process of ripening of new ones begins. On average, pruning of roses is performed twice a year: in spring and summer. During the spring procedure, the main shoots of the bush are cut into 3-5 buds (so that 15-20 cm from the base remain), and then all diseased and weak growths are cut.
During the summer pruning, the flowering time is increased by removing excess buds, after which, before hibernation, it remains only to pinch the main stem, all flowering shoots and prune non-flowering ones. The weaker and worse the bush is developed, the more it needs to be trimmed, however, if there are no extra shoots, then it is worth revising the feeding regimen.
Shelter for the winter
Shelter roses with special materials for the winter begin about 2 weeks before the expected frost, but in the case of the written variety, such preparation is performed only when grown in northern regions with very frosty winters. In the middle lane, it is enough to nip the cut bushes and cover them with a layer of soil.
Preparing flowers for shelter usually involves a number of additional actions: pruning unripe shoots, buds, leaves, flowers, as well as treating the remaining parts with a Bordeaux mixture, which should protect the plant from pathogens in the ground. It is advisable to burn all the fallen leaves and dried shoots right away, and just before the frosts you will only have to fill up the remaining pink “stumps” with a soil layer of 20–25 cm.
Top plants are additionally covered with spruce branches, but sawdust and pieces of peat are undesirable. Additional insulation material (usually in the northern regions) is laid on a wire frame pre-made of wire, installed at a height of 20-30 cm above the plants. On top of the spandex (or other suitable material), you can stretch the plastic film, always leaving side vents.
With the advent of spring, roses begin to temper gradually, first revealing only the side parts of the structure, and then completely removing the entire shelter. If this is not done, then the temperature rising inside the structure will lead to the premature growth of young shoots, which without a normally functioning root system (in cold land it does not perform all its functions) will quickly dry out.
Growing difficulties
Despite the high resistance to typical fungal ailments of garden and horticultural crops, it cannot be said that the Pastella rose is completely protected from them. If you violate the requirements for growing conditions, you can detect signs of the following ailments on the bushes:
Of the pests on the Pastella sometimes found aphid, which is clearly visible to the naked eye, mainly from the inside of the sheet. The simplest solution to the problem in this case will be mechanical removal of the pest with a soap solution, but with a massive invasion you will need a good insecticide (Inta-Vir, Iskra).
To solve any of these problems, chemical means (for example, the popular "Aktara") or alternative methods of control can be used: for example, treating plants with infusion of potato tops or tobacco broth (often used when the aphids are on the bushes). However, the most effective way to prevent such troubles is deservedly considered competent prevention, which includes dosed irrigation, regular top dressing and soil care.
This is especially true for outbreaks of these diseases in the past, because with a serious damage to the bushes with rust, most likely the plants will have to be thrown out or burned. Given all the nuances, and correctly choosing all methods of planting and further care for the Rose Pastella, you will not have any problems with its flowering, so you will only have to enjoy its abundance and beauty.
